How to Take Your Double Hung Sash Window Apart

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Repair Guide · Double Hung Windows

How to Take Your Double Hung Sash Window Apart

The sash window is fully restorable. Taking your sash window apart for maintenance, replacing spirals or cords, or draught-proofing the beading can feel daunting if you haven't done it before — but it's actually pretty easy and straightforward once you know how.

30–60 minutes Beginner–Intermediate DIY Basic tools only

What you'll need

Just a couple of basic tools — nothing specialised.

Chisel
Mallet or hammer
Small pry bar

The step-by-step process

01

Remove the lower sash

This is simpler than people think. The lower sash is prevented from falling into the room by two thin, vertical pieces of timber — these are called the "stop" or "staff" beads (easy to remember, since they stop the sash from falling in).

The stop beads look like part of the window moulding, but they're actually fully detachable, held in place by small nails. Insert a chisel between the bead and the moulding, give it a tap with a mallet, and it should pry away. Depending on how many layers of paint are on there, you might have to persevere — but it will come away eventually.

The lower sash will then come out easily, although it'll still be attached to the sash cord if the cords are still intact. You can cut these and replace them with new cord later.

02

Remove the parting bead

Behind the lower sash you'll see a vertical bead separating it from the upper sash. This is the all-important parting bead — one we talk about a lot here at Lock & Latch, because it's often the piece DIY enthusiasts miss when draught-sealing their sash windows. You'll need to remove this too if you want to take out the top sash.

03

Locate the weight cavity

From here you should see a small compartment on either side of the window frame where the counterweights are hidden. They may have been tucked away for years and should still work fine — but as sashes often get thicker glass fitted over time, the sash can become heavier, meaning extra weight may need to be added.

Need to add or re-weigh? see our full guide to correctly re-balancing your sash window weights if this is what you need to do.
04

Inspect and replace hardware

From here you also have access to replace the sash cord and inspect and replace the pulleys if required.

It's also the ideal time to inspect the timber surrounds and frame closely for any signs of rot — soft spots, dark or crumbling patches, or peeling paint are all common giveaways. With everything exposed like this, any rotten sections are far easier to spot and get to than once the window's back together.

Found some rot? if it's not structural, you don't need to replace the timber — see our guide to repairing rotten timber with epoxy filler to fix it up while it's already apart.
05

Put it back together

Once you're done, put everything back the way it came out and nail the stop beads back into place. Tack them gently at first — you want to make sure they're perfectly positioned so they don't interfere with the free movement of the sash before nailing them off fully.

Replacing your beading? if your stop and parting beads are due for replacement anyway, this is the moment to swap them for draught-sealed versions instead of standard timber — see our step-by-step guide to draught-proofing a sash window.
06

Finish it off

When all of this is done, it might look a bit of a mess. You may want to finish the job by painting and adding some new hardware, which will have your window looking like new and lasting for many years to come.

What to do while it's apart

Once your sash window is open up like this, it's the perfect time to tackle a few other jobs in one go rather than pulling it apart again later.

Re-balance the weights

If the sash feels heavy, won't stay open, or slams shut, this is the time to correctly weigh and re-hang the counterweights.

Read the re-balancing guide

Draught-proof the beading

Swap the stop and parting beads for draught-sealed versions while they're already off — no extra work required.

Read the draught-proofing guide

Repair rotten timber

With the frame fully exposed, it's the easiest time to spot and repair any soft or rotten sections with epoxy filler.

Read the timber repair guide

A note on lead safety: older sash windows may have several layers of lead-based paint built up around the beading and moulding. Always take appropriate precautions when chiselling, prying or sanding painted timber on older windows — see SafeWork NSW's guidelines on lead work before you begin.

Common questions

Do I need to remove both sashes?

Not necessarily. If you only need to access the weight cavity or replace the lower sash cord, removing the lower sash and parting bead is often enough. You'll only need to remove the top sash as well if you're working on the upper cords, weights, or fully draught-proofing the window.

Will removing the beads damage my window?

Not if you take your time. The beads are designed to be removable — go slowly, work the chisel gently along the length of the bead rather than forcing one spot, and expect some resistance from old paint. A cracked or split bead can usually still be reused, but if it's too damaged, replacement beading is inexpensive.

How do I know if my sash cords need replacing?

Look for fraying, thinning, or a cord that's stretched and no longer holding tension. If a cord has already snapped, that side of the sash will feel heavy or won't stay in position — a clear sign it's time to replace it.

Can I do this without damaging the surrounding paintwork?

Running a sharp knife along the paint line before prying the bead away helps prevent the paint from cracking or peeling beyond the bead itself. It's still worth planning to touch up the paint once you've finished, as some minor marking is normal.

Ready to get started?

Everything you need to service, re-cord and draught-proof your sash windows — pulleys, cord, parting bead and more.